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donderdag 27 juli 2017

Easy dresses Patrones 374 #7


I was in a search for an easy dress pattern to wear in my soon to come holiday. Something wide, not too long, and also to look a bit put together. First I tried a muslin for the Kobe dress from Papercut Patterns. I really liked that back detail. Well, the muslin was terrible on me, armholes too low, sleeves too wide, shoulder seams too wide, I usually adjust these things on the patterns I sew but the  back is pulling the front to the back and after wearing the muslin around the house that bothered me a lot. I tried to move the shoulder seam a bit to the front but I am still not happy. 


Anyway, I put the Kobe on hold and then I saw this pattern in the Patrones 374. It is sleeveless, so perfect for warm days, it is wide, easy breezy ; but  I hated that armhole dart. I made a muslin in size 38 for the shoulders and armholes and 40 for the rest. 


The dart was really bothering me, looking more like a last time fix on my armhole so that had to go . Also, the armhole is really low in the original pattern.  So, I moved the dart on the bust, I raised the armhole  2.5cm and the neck is 0.5cm lowered.

The pattern is finished with facings, but I finished my neck line and armholes with bias strips. Also, I skipped the zipper, which is totally decorative ( as decorative as an invisible zipper can be ) unless you have a really big head :) . 

 The dress is really easy to make , I love the pleat in the back .These 2 dresses and the top are going with me fo sure. Love both looks with or without belt . The fabrics are viscose and perfect for this pattern, the pleat need a drapey fabric to fall nice. 

The fabrics for the dresses are from  Driessen  and the top is a left over piece from my Maxy Kiera skirt 


Very happy with this items, next I am starting on a muslin on the last Colette pattern, the Penny dress, and I am still looking for a pattern to make this dress, I have the original fabric, scuba with an amazing print.
picture : Navabi



woensdag 19 juli 2017

Dress Knipmode June 2017


Finally, a non-tester garment :).
 This is a lovely pattern. It is a pattern from KnipMode 6/2017. As usual, my biggest problem is to choose the right size. The pattern is in sizes 34-54. In their size chart, I am a 38 for the bust and waist and 34 for the hips ( b92  w71 h92). So I made the muslin accordingly but it was way too big. I decided that size 34 will be perfect. The pattern has a drop shoulder but the way it was fitting it was restricting my arms, to fix that I took 2 cm off from the shoulder seam length.


Size 34 fits me perfect ( in this pattern), in the back bodice are 2 darts, the front has also 2 pleats and it gets closed with a side zipper. I read in the magazine that you could make this in a jersey fabric, I guess in that case you could skip the zipper. The fabric is a woven poly crepe, medium weight with a bit of stretch and I think is perfect for this pattern, almost perfect, because of the print there are some details lost.


Usually I don`t read instructions but in this case, you have those ties to construct. The one on the right side is just a piece of fabric, doubled and sewn at the side but the second one is a bit more complicated, one piece is part of the bodice and to that, you need to attach another piece. Well, I know Kinpmode instructions are a bit Burda style but in this case, the instructions are great, everything gets perfect together. 


I have a second version of this almost ready, needs a hem still. I like it a lot. Very flattering, not too much fabric in the skirt. Nice fitted bodice at the back and comfy in the front. These versions are both unlined but I am planning to make one more in a thinner cotton so I was wondering how to line the bodice, because of the ties part. I wrote an email to Knipmode and I got the next day answer to my question. If you use only the right side of the bodice cut on the fold you can make that as a lining and the skirt with the pleats closed. Nice that they are so helpful.







vrijdag 7 juli 2017

Oceanside Dress-Itch to Stitch pattern



I am very bad at combining fabrics prints and colors. Usually, I agonize about choosing the perfect fabric for my projects but when I need also to match fabrics /colors/prints then I go really crazy about it.
This is the latest pattern from Itch to Stich Patterns, the Ocean Side Dress
Made for knit fabrics, loose fitting bodice, fitted waist band, and a half circle skirt.

I made size 6 for the bodice and 4 for the waist and skirt. I added 2 cm at the hem of the skirt but I am a bit undecided about the length I like in this dress.



The solid version of my Oceanside dress is a knit with more than 50 %stretch horizontal and vertical, the contrasting gray has almost no stretch. 



The printed version is made in a very light ponti with no vertical stretch and the contrast in a light jersey. To avoid bulk at the waist I used the same thin jersey for the second layer of the waist. Also the cuff facings are made in the thin jersey. 


This dress is so comfortabel, really, like I want to keep it all day on.
Also it is very easy and fast to make. I made mine almost entirely on the serger. The hem is sewn with the cover. Oh boy, I love it when it works and hate it when is acting out , I have an Janome CPX  With this kind of stable knits is almost allways a succes. With thinner jerseys it is a strugle, most of the time after making a bunch of samples ( and feeling stupid that I can't get it good)  I am giving up and ending up with the trusty double needle hem.




Back to the dress, as I said it is very easy to make, the pattern instructions are great, as for all ITS patterns.
You could easily make a top with a peplum insteed of the whole skirt or a circle skirt with the fitted waist band. The stretch of the fabric is really important to consider when you chose the size to make, the waist needs to stretch when you put the dress on / off .


At the waist band / skirt seam you are instructed to add also clear elastic. I found this step really important as the skirt can get a bit heavy. I sewn the waistband , skirt and elastic in one step , with my serger. The regular foot on my serger has a hole where I can thread the 6 mm elastic thru. I marked all the notches also on my elastic and I stretch that to meet the notches on my skirt seam . It worked perfect!



Well needless to say I love both versions of my Oceanside dress , perfect for the summer !

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donderdag 29 juni 2017

Ella PJ`s set from Designer Stitch Patterns (free pattern)


I am always in search of the perfect PJ's. I have the Closet Case pattern already cut ( like 4 months ago) in a beautiful cotton but I still need to start sewing that one. Beeing a tester for Designer Stitch, when Ann came with this pattern I knew that there was my chance to actually make a pair of nice pajamas. I work (sew) always good with deadlines. 


This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch, the Ella Cami set, a cami and relaxed elastic shorts or long pants with pockets.  I made mine in a drapey viscose and I must say that this set is so nice to wear. First I thought, who needs pockets in a pajama pant, but I love them. The relaxed fit of the cami is perfect, not too boxy.

I made my set in size 3 for the top and size 2 for the pants ( for the record, and easy to understand the sizing of the pattern, my measurements are 92-71-94 and 169cm ) .I only shortened the pants by 6cm. I made a second cami already ( to wear with jeans), it is such an easy project and I think if you omit the lower flounce and lengthen the bodice of the cami , you can make this with just a bit of fabric. Also omitting the facings and finishing with a bias will be very easy to do.

The Ella set is now ( until 4th of July ) on sale, as the rest of the Designer Stitch shop, but by joining the Designer Stitch Facebook group  you will find a discount code to get this pattern FREE. Great pattern, with a lot of possibilities, not only for PJ's; made in the right fabrics also for everyday wear. 






woensdag 14 juni 2017

Bridget blouse and Alyse pants -Designer Stitch Patterns



This month Designer Stitch is celebrating its 1-year anniversary. I wanted to sew a DS pattern for this occasion and I ended up sewing 2. So happy anniversary Designer Stitch ( and congrats to Ann Grose the mastermind behind the patterns).



 The pants are the Alyse slim leg pants , made for woven stretch fabrics with 4% spandex...The pants are based on a stretch ratio of 20% 
I made my first muslin in size 3, in a stretch cotton sateen and it was a bit too big overall so smart me, I took size 2 as I was think that it will be much better overall, and made a new muslin...in a fabric with almost no stretch....I know... Stupid me. Ofcourse it didn't fit so I cut in the same fabric as the first one and the fit was almost perfect. 


This is sewn with 1cm SA instead of 1.5cm, also I took a bit of fabric from the back leg out and I think the fit is really nice. I omitted the pockets. I made my final pants also in a stretch cotton sateen. Love the snug fit and the slim legs...that are not too tight.



The blouse is the Bridget pattern , and I used the sleeves from the "short sleeve " pack, the mid-elbow sleeve. 
I made this pattern also here in a red crepe, and here in a polyester fabric, so I had no fitting work .I used the same pattern as for the red Bridget, size 2C for the bust and blending at 4 for the waist and 6 for the hips. No waist darts and no zipper. This pattern has cup sizing so that makes it easy to fit.

This coral crepe was so nice to sew. So spongy and soft. Also to wear is a pleasure, it even has a bit of stretch .

The lace sleeves were pretty easy to sew. For the sleeve seam, I used first a straight stitch and then at a 0.5 cm or something like that away from the straight stitching line, I did a small zigzag and trimmed the rest of my SA next to the zigzag. I saw this finishing method in the "Sewing lingerie" class from Alison Smith, on Craftsy . My corded lace wouldn't feed nicely under the locker. 


I finished the neckline with a stroke of lace , sewn first by machine turned and hand sewn in place. The stroke is also finished with a small zigzag.

I also finished the armholes with a bias band, self-made and finished by hand. The side and shoulder seams are sewn with french seams. I love the neat look inside.   For the sleeves hem, I used the edge of my fabric.

And the inside :)


And this is it. Two nice pieces in my wardrobe, and two pieces of fabric out of my stash.
On the Designer Stitch Patterns Support  Facebook group are this week all kind of special offers and giveaways, I think it worth taking a look.
Happy Anniversary, Designer Stitch and Ann keep up the good work.

Thank you for reading! 


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donderdag 8 juni 2017

Beausoleil Dress-Itch to stitch



At the moment is like I am doing only "testing" sewing, but I think the deadlines are a push for me to finish the garments on time. Life can get a little busy, so if normal I will take my time with a project when testing a pattern I need to finish on time. So, the latest pattern testing was, for Itch to Stitch patterns, for lovely Kennis. A  new pattern, the Beausoleil dress & top, absolutely on trend but definitely not something I would buy from a store, not that I buy any clothes but this "cold shoulder" style is not something that I ever considered. Testing patterns is for me also the possibility to get out my comfort zone and try new things.


Beausoleil has cup sizing A, B, C, D and DD, sizes 00-20, option for a dress or top, center back lapped zipper ( with a great tutorial on ITS blog), patch pockets for the dress option.
I made my dress in my usual 4C size for the upper part and based on my actual measurements (71cm waist and 92 cm hips) I went with size 0 for the waist and hips. The only change I made was my sway back adjustment, 2 cm .


Most difficult for me was deciding on which fabric to use, I wanted something not too stiff but also strong enough to support the zipper. I went with this polyester, wich I bought a while ago without a project in my head for it. I think it works great for this dress but it was slightly sheer so I had to line the skirt part. For that, I used the skirt from my muslin, a blue cotton ( of course blue, it is like I own all the blue fabric in the world :)) ) It was perfect, I kinda did my thing with attaching it to the dress but it worked. After I attached the zipper to the skirt I attached the lining skirt at the waist of the dress leaving a few cm unsewn at the zipper and that I attached by hand to finish around the zipper. 


and here is how it looks from the inside 


The neckline and the shoulder "holes" are finished with facings, interfaced facings and to get a nice clean edge on my facings I used a technique I learned in a Craftsy class, Mastering constructions: Collars and closures with Sara Alm. You sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together and then you turn the interfacing to the inside and press it to fuse it to the main fabric.


...and the inside of the interfaced facing.


I could not decide which what color thread to use for sewing my hem so I did it by hand, it looks very clean and nice from the outside.


Very happy with my new dress, also it is the perfect match for this wedges.
The Beausoleil pattern is on sale for a few days on the Itch to Stitch webshop.


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donderdag 1 juni 2017

Classic shirt -Liesl+co.


I can`t remember when I made my last shirt, must be a few years back  ( also a blue one :) )  but I really wanted a new one. I have a few patterns in my stash ( actually a lot of them if I count also the Burda/Knipmode/Patrones magazines) but this one, the Classic shirt from Liesl+ co. came very fast on the top of my list.

The pattern has cup sizing A,B,C and D , this is always a plus for me, it has a relaxed fit but not boxy, a nice hem shape and I love the collar. It was the first time sewing with a PDF from Liesl+co but everything went smooth; layered pattern tiles, so I  printed only my size.


I bought the pattern after I saw the Sew Along on their blog. That convinced me that I could sew the collar and the sleeve plackets without too much trouble. And yes, it was so so easy. Everything is so well explained with clear pictures.

I made my shirt in size 4C and after making a muslin I made a few changes: 1.5cm off from the shoulder seam, the bodice and sleeves shortened by 4 cm and also typical for me, 2 cm sway back adjustment. Also, I moved the buttonholes a little in order to get one button at my high bust line.


I like the width of the sleeves and also the size of the collar. To sew the pockets I draped the shirt over my pressing ham, to get them nicely placed over the bust dart.


Of course, I made it in a simple ( boring )  blue fabric, cotton/polyester, but now that I am happy with the fit I can go wild...probably some blueprints :))). The plus side is that I can wear it with a lot of things, even with my  Kiera maxi skirt.


Love the slightly shaped yoke and the small pleats. 


I am so happy with this shirt, I love the fit and it is pretty easy to sew too. 





woensdag 31 mei 2017

Anza Dress


A while ago I tested the Anza jumpsuit, for Itch to Stitch patterns. That pattern comes also with a dress option. The upper bodice is the same as the one from the jumpsuit only with a skirt for the lower part. 

I made it in size 4C and I shortened the skirt by 4 cm . I had the dress very fast finished, almost, but sewing the buttons did take longer than sewing the whole dress. It is something with sewing buttons ...I don`t know, it must be. A few days ago I finished the Classic shirt from Liesl+co. but I still need to sew the buttons and I just can`t push myself to do that, very strange :))).


I really like this dress and I wore it a few times already. Very easy to wear, love the deep pockets and the relaxed fit.

I made my dress in a very nice deep red crepe, ( in real life is not so bright red ) and lined the pocket flaps with a nice satin, also used for the skirt pockets. I did not line the breast pockets this time. I love the buttons and I think the gold with red it looks really nice. Again I used some metal beads as cord stoppers.


I could wear this dress every day, with flats it could be my uniform :)
Here is my Jumpsuit from the same pattern.



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