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Monday, September 17, 2018

Chelsea cardigan by Designer Stitch

Chelsea cardigan in sweater knit 
The fall is here and I am in great need of appropriate clothes for cooler days. So, the new pattern from Designer Stitch came at the perfect time, the Chelsea Cardigan. I tested the pattern but I can assure you that the opinions are 100 percent honest. I made 3 of them so I wouldn`t waste my time and fabric on a pattern I don`t love. 
I made a full video review on YouTube with action videos too.


The Chelsea Cardigan is coming with three length options, pockets, and an optional belt. I made mine in the longer length but I definitely want to make it also in the shorter version. I made a size 3 with a swayback adjustment ( my typical adjustment)  and  I also made the pockets a bit deeper.



This version is made in a sweater knit from Driessenstoffen.nl , with a nice stretch and great drape, perfect for this pattern. To stabilize the shoulders I added clear elastic on the back shoulders and for the back neck I added seam tape to avoid stretching, it worked perfectly.


This one is made in ponti knit, and also here I used the stay tape to stabilize the back neck and the shoulders. Also, a good idea is to staystitch the pocket bags. I explain that also in the video (https://youtu.be/IeBlA9Nn3w4?t=16m8s). That makes the pockets to stay in place and not roll out.


The back is cut on the fold. I love the slightly A shape.

This version was made in a faux suede ( also from Driessenstoffen ) and to be honest I did not even think on how I am going to sew it ... Cutting was easy with my rotary cutter but when I tried to put a pin on it was almost impossible. 
So my tips on sewing with this fabric are: use wonder clips or paper clips to hold your pieces together, use a microtex needle, for me a 60/8 needle was the perfect one; don`t press directly on the fabric, use a pressing cloth, I use a piece of  silk organza which is also seethrough, use a slightly longer stitch length ( I used a 3), a walking foot can be very useful, I kept the IDT on my Pfaff engaged all the time. 

I wanted to topstitch my seams and decided also to leave the edges unfinished, this fabric is really like leather, it doesn`t reavel at all and if it is nice cut it really doesn`t need any finishing. The pattern has 6mm seam allowance, something to keep in mind. To finish the pockets edges, I used my pinking shears.

The instructions are to finish the collar by hand but because I did not want to fight with this fabric to get my needle in it ( I also did not have one so thin in the house, and going to the fabric store for a needle, or even order it online it would have great risks of  buying more fabric :))) So, I  thought on using the bagged method ( or also known as burrito method ) as you will use it on a shirt collar or a cuff . That worked PERFECT! I stitched till the shoulder seams and for the rest of the collar at the back I just fold the SA in, and topstitched Here above you can see how it looks from the inside. Very neat and super fast.

I love this version, it looks more like a coat but you know, much faster to make:). This fabric so soft!


Soon there will be a sew along at the Designer Stitch blog and I am going to make a video on the bagged method for the collar. So if you think that you don`t want the pattern because you need to hand stitch the collar, no worries the bagged method is super easy and super fast. I used it also on the black/purple ponti version and it worked perfectly.

...and here are the three garments in action :)





The Chelsea Cardigan is for a limited time in the sale 

Link to the Designer Stitch webshop https://bit.ly/2OyTIpm

Happy sewing!

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