Carmen skirt and new YouTube videos!

I feel like this month was the skirt month for me, I made three and I have at least two planned. 

Today I want to talk about the latest pattern from Designer Stitch Patterns , the Carmen Skirt.

The description on the Designer Stitch website is perfect :

 The Carmen is all about being SASSY, FLIRTY and SEXY !!!

The length of the Carmen gives you the opportunity to wear it for all seasons – Short and Flirty for the warmer months and Long and Flouncy for the cooler months.

The styling of the Carmen gives the impression of a wrap skirt – but with the clever front seam construction it retains its modesty and stays fully closed at the front.

When I took the pictures it was really windy outside, not the perfect weather for pictures but perfect to illustrate how windproof this is.

I made my skirt in a cotton sateen with a bit of stretch. Because the wrong side of the fabric is showing on the flounce  I searched for a fabric with two nice sides but could not find anything I liked in my stash. I did find a piece of cotton eyelet and decided to face my flounce.

Long story short, if you want to do this, you need to remember to cut mirror images of your flounce pieces. I forgot that and ruined a big piece of my eyelet. I think this is a great idea, you also finish the edge of the flounce, so no hemming and it gives also a bit body and structure on the flounce.

The pattern, while it looks a bit complicated it is really easy, for some people, the most challenging part it might be the invisible zipper on the back, but the instructions are included.

The patterns come with 3 waist options and two length options. I think it will be great made in a drapey wool and worn with boots for the fall/winter time.

 

I did a little video review also on YouTube!

...and here is the "action" video!

I love this pattern and I am definitely going to make the longer option too.

The pattern is for a few days on sale . 

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Disclaimer: In the name of full transparency, please be aware that this blog post contains affiliate links and any purchases made through such links will result in a small commission for me (at no extra cost for you). 

Synthia top-Designer Stitch pattern

I know, another Designer Stitch pattern, but with the little sewing time, I have, making patterns that I know the fit of is the best choice to have a little sewing pleasure. This is the latest DS pattern, the Synthia Top, semi-fitted, made for wovens, with cup sizes ( I love that! )  and it comes with two options, as a plain sleeveless top or with the ruffled collar and armhole frill.

I made a size 3 cup C and made two adjustments, I raised the dart point by 1.5cm and made a swayback adjustment ( 2cm). I love the fit over the bust and this might be my "to go pattern" in de future for a woven top. 

I did not have the time to find fabric with two good sides but this poly crepe is ok. I love the drape of the fabric and weight only, as you can see in the pictures, it does have a clear wrong ( back ) side, it could have been worse though :)). So I think that an important point, when making the version with the ruffle, is to choose the fabric well, knowing that the wrong side will show.

The most consuming part is hemming the ruffle, but other than that it is a pretty fast make. Also, I did not add a zipper on the back. I can easily slip it over my head. 

Putting the ruffle together is like magic... the instructions will tell you how don`t overthink it, I did it, but actually, it is so so easy and actually very clear in the instructions. Also, because I was lazy and didn`t want to use the serger  ( although I think it would have bee faster:) ) I used french seams on all my seams. It does look very pretty on the inside.

I am wearing my Synthia top with the Liana jeans from Itch to Stitch. I love that pattern, I made it two times and I wear both pairs a lot, I need more of them in my wardrobe!

So, another successful project. I am definitely going to make more of this and I am sure I am going to enjoy wearing it when the weather warms up. 

The Synthia top is on sale for a limited time. 

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Ilse Vest-Designer Stitch

A new pattern from Designer Stitch . The Ilse vest! 

From the DS website: The Ilse Vest is a versatile and relaxed easy wearing garment. The pattern offers cups sizes ( B, C, D, DD (E)  ) for fine-tuning the fit of your garment. 

As a closure, you can make an Obi belt ( pattern included ) or a purchased fastening. Obviously, I did choose the latest :).

I made my Ilse vest in my usual DS size for tops, 3C. The garment has a relaxed fit, so I did not make any changes. The fabric is a beautiful sherpa type, bought online at Bas Bastiaans ( no affiliate). On one side is suede and on the other side, it is a gold(-ish) fur. I was so excited to start on this vest that I did not even think about how I should cut it. So I did it as I would with any other fabric. Big mistake! After I cut all my pieces I went on the internet trying to find a way to sew my back shoulder darts in this thick fabric. When I was searching that I also found that on fur you should cut only the on the backing fabric, in this case, my suede and not all the way thru the fur  ....Yes, a little too late for me! 

I sewed my darts, as usual, the fabric behaved nice . Then I was to decide on how to sew my seams. I wanted those raw edges showing. The main seams on this pattern are 1.5 cm so I marked my stitching lines and then overlapped my pieces at the stitching line and sew, and then again one row at 1cm away from the first row. To resolve my cutting mistake and get those furry edges I trimmed my SA, only cutting the suede layer. I'm really happy how the seams are looking.

Also, I did not use the provided facings for the armholes and to get a bit of reinforcement ( I saw that in the RTW similar garments) I did a straight stitch row on the armholes and around the collar and the hem. And again I trimmed a bit on the edge to repair my cutting mistake and get that fur edge neat.

At the end this is a very easy project, you know, with the "right "fabric you can make it way too time-consuming :)), like I did ! I saw a lot of beautiful testers versions in wool and I really want one too!  I love this one though,  it is really warm and cozy, plus my daughter wants to hug me the whole time I am wearing it because it is so soft :).

The Ilse vest is for a limited time on Sale at the Designer Stitch Shop ( as a PDF pattern with swing instructions in English ) 

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Faux leather Santi Skirt -Designer Stitch Patterns

I don`t get so much sewing time these days so while I have a lot of patterns on my sewing wishlist, I  don`t have the time for tracing patterns, making muslins and so on. Testing patterns for Ann Grose from Designer Stitch is making it easy, as I know how her patterns are fitting me.

This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch Patterns, the Santi skirt! 

The Santi Skirt has 8 gore panels for shaping, front patch pockets, and a self-shaped belt.

I made a size 3 and as you can see the original pattern is much shorter than my skirt. First I was planning to make my Santi in corduroy ( blue, rust or dark red) but while trying to decide on the color, I saw this fabric at Driessen Stoffen ( no affiliate) and thought that it will be perfect for my skirt. It is a kind of faux leather and the back side of the fabric is a kind of  knit...or something very soft and nice so I`ve got immediately this idea of a midi skirt and the result is exactly what I had in my head. The fabric drapes also very nice.

To get this look I lengthened the pattern by 19cm. The Designer Stitch patterns have lines for length adjustments so that was easy.

This is the back of the fabric, very soft and also easy to sew.

Of course, on this pattern, you can go crazy with topstitching! I love topstitching and I made a few swatches before I decided on the topstitching thread. I am happy with my choice, not too bold but also not getting lost in the color of the fabric. 

The pattern is pretty easy but all the topstitching can take some time.

The skirt has a centered back zipper opening. The belt should have been cut on the fold, but I have a center back seam because I did not have enough fabric. I ordered only 1.5m which it would have been enough for the original design but not for my extra lentgh.

I think this fabric is perfect for this pattern and now I only need to find some time to make my corduroy version or versions :) too.

The Santi skirt is now on sale for a limited time on the Designer Stitch shop. 

The turtleneck is the Hepburn from Itch to Stitch Patterns which I made a few times, also here 

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Tanner Culotte -Designer Stitch Pattern

Culotte, a style totally new to me. The new Designer Stitch PDF pattern, the Tanner culotte ( aff) is not something I would choose to make but being a tester for Designer Stitch you get the push to try new things. I gave it a try and I am so happy I did. The pattern is pretty easy to make and if you love topstitching this pattern is perfect for it.

I just love the big pockets and the look with the self-fabric belt, wide belt loops, the back yoke and the width of the hem. This pattern (aff) is made for no stretch fabrics and this denim has no stretch but it is still very comfortable.

I struggled with the length of my Tanner culottes but I think this works perfectly for me, love the look with the long boots. 

I am very pleased with this pattern (aff) and can`t wait to make it in some other fabrics.

Frida Dress, Designer Stitch pattern

The new pattern from Designer Stitch, the Frida Khalo dress (aff). In this pattern, the main focus is on the fabric. The pattern with its simple lines is perfect to be used with beautiful special fabrics. The inspirational images were really beautiful and when I started looking for some embroidered fabric, the search was not easy. After the test was done, these fabrics were everywhere, so lucky you, if you want to make a Frida. 

The Frida pattern (aff) has a few options for length ( top, tunic, dress ), with or without a flounce and also a few sleeve options ( short, long, short gathered puff or gathered long sleeve bishop).  I made a muslin in size 2 and I only made a 1 cm narrow shoulder adjustment. 

My first version was made in this gorgeous embroidered velvet ( no aff.), which I ordered  when I knew that I was going to test this pattern, but at that moment, I did not know ( I missed that) that in the front  are 6 pintucks and when I got my fabric I knew that there was no way to make nice pintucks in that fabric so I changed that in gathers.

Also to fit nice in my embroidered motifs I decided to add 10 cm to the full dress option....at the moment I had something in my head, like a nice cozy autumn dress but after making the first pictures it felt not really "me " so I got an idea to add some elastic at the waist, to make it more fitted. I used a method similar to this

 only I attached the elastic directly on the dress, instead of making the casing first.

Also, the sleeves are different than the pattern...I did that to fit nice in the embroidery, it is the normal sleeve pattern with a length of 31 cm, from the shoulder down. I added elastic at the sleeve hem too.

 Another change was to finish the neckline with bias band turned to the inside to get an invisible result on the outside. 

Love this dress!

This version is made in a border embroidered cotton. I loved this fabric when I saw it online, only when it got to me, it was not blue with white embroidery, as advertised but a bit purple with light purple embroidery. 

I played a bit with the embroidery, to get a nice pattern on the front and back yoke and that is why I added a center front seam. In this version, I made the pintucks and I love the look in this thin cotton. 

I am very happy with both versions and I know what I am going to sew with the next embroidered piece of fabric I will find. 

The new Frida Dress is to be found at the Designer Stitch shop, in PDF format with English instructions.

Kristen Dress -Designer Stitch Two times

Finally something new in almost one month! And this is not just  "something", there are actually two dresses that I love. This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch, Kristen dress, and the testing started exactly when I was going away for the summer holidays so I can`t say that I tested this, so this is more like a review.

The Kristen dress has a princess style bodice with pleated flared skirt. It comes with cups sizes ( B, C, D and DD)  and in sizes 2-22. It can be sleeveless or with flared sleeves. There are also optional side seams pockets.

 I wanted to make this dress really bad as I love the ruffles and the skirt volume. You can see that I loved the ruffles so much and so I made the first dress without them :)). 

I could not decide on the fabric to use, and because I was not pressed by the timeline for the testing I did have a lot of time to think about my fabric choice. I had a few other fabrics in my stash for this but the skirt was not fitting and so I had to search again ( in my stash :) ) and found this...perfect width, great print/color but the weight was not good to make it with the ruffles. This is a stretch poly crepe, medium weight and there was no way I could get ruffles out of it...or at least nice ones. I think it looks great without too.

I made a size 2C ( US4) for the shoulders and bust blending to size 3 at the waist. It was possible to make a size 2 also for the waist as I have a bit of ease there, but like this, it is very comfortable around my waist ( I can eat at ease without being afraid that I will pop out of my dress ). I made my usual changes ( 1cm narrow shoulders adjustment, 1 cm sway back adjustment and at the center back neck I took 1 cm ( with a total of 2cm) out blending to nothing as I had a bit of gaping in my muslin stage) Also I took 5cm off the length of the skirt ... I am thinking now that I could put that back in a future dress to get another look. Really happy with the fit, like very very happy! 

   I had to decide on the print matching...while I was only in the mood to sew, so after getting up on the front, pretty fast,  I took some time to get the back matched, at the zipper. It looks ok...maybe like 1mm off but who is looking ?? :)) I interfaced the zipper area for strength and to get a bit more grip on my stretchy fabric.

I love this dress, the fit is great, and I think I love it so much also because I did not have to work so much to make it fit,  Ann from Designer Stitch knows her thing :).

And because I love so much this version and because this pattern is about the ruffles, I made immediately one more, with ruffles! Both fabrics are from Driessenstoffen  ( no affiliate).

I love when I can sew, without worrying about the fit. You get that when you make repeats of the same pattern, so this was easy and fast. The ruffles did make my life difficult ( and my fingers to hurt). Actually, the fabric is to be blamed! This is a polyester crepe, lovely print, and drape but sewing was a bit of a pain. I had to use a 75 stretch needle as the 80 and 90 were too thick and this 75 stretch was the only one that wanted to sew well. Also gathering this fabric was a pain ....I used big stitches for my gathering stitches but not too big as the front and the neck ruffles are gathered with one row, but oh boy the fabric did not want to move on my thread! For the armholes ruffles I tried to gather with my serger as I sometimes do on 6mm SA, but that was also a pain...anyway , after a bit of swearing and sweating, it was done ! 

This is not me twirling :), is just the wind, the skirt has nice flare and the fabric is light...which makes it dangerous  wearing it on the street on a windy day :)))

There were no changes, I used the same pattern as in the black/flowers print.

Really love the ruffles! New haircut, as you can see in these pictures, I have no idea what to do with it, I wore my hair for years in a pony tail so I need to find my way with it, I hope :))

And now off to do some more sewing :) 

PS: The Kristen dress is now for a limited time on sale  

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Oceanside Dress-Itch to Stitch pattern

I am very bad at combining fabrics prints and colors. Usually, I agonize about choosing the perfect fabric for my projects but when I need also to match fabrics /colors/prints then I go really crazy about it.

This is the latest pattern from Itch to Stich Patterns, the Ocean Side Dress. 

Made for knit fabrics, loose fitting bodice, fitted waist band, and a half circle skirt.

I made size 6 for the bodice and 4 for the waist and skirt. I added 2 cm at the hem of the skirt but I am a bit undecided about the length I like in this dress.

The solid version of my Oceanside dress is a knit with more than 50 %stretch horizontal and vertical, the contrasting gray has almost no stretch. 

The printed version is made in a very light ponti with no vertical stretch and the contrast in a light jersey. To avoid bulk at the waist I used the same thin jersey for the second layer of the waist. Also the cuff facings are made in the thin jersey. 

This dress is so comfortabel, really, like I want to keep it all day on.

Also it is very easy and fast to make. I made mine almost entirely on the serger. The hem is sewn with the cover. Oh boy, I love it when it works and hate it when is acting out , I have an Janome CPX  With this kind of stable knits is almost allways a succes. With thinner jerseys it is a strugle, most of the time after making a bunch of samples ( and feeling stupid that I can't get it good)  I am giving up and ending up with the trusty double needle hem.

Back to the dress, as I said it is very easy to make, the pattern instructions are great, as for all ITS patterns.

You could easily make a top with a peplum insteed of the whole skirt or a circle skirt with the fitted waist band. The stretch of the fabric is really important to consider when you chose the size to make, the waist needs to stretch when you put the dress on / off .

At the waist band / skirt seam you are instructed to add also clear elastic. I found this step really important as the skirt can get a bit heavy. I sewn the waistband , skirt and elastic in one step , with my serger. The regular foot on my serger has a hole where I can thread the 6 mm elastic thru. I marked all the notches also on my elastic and I stretch that to meet the notches on my skirt seam . It worked perfect!

Well needless to say I love both versions of my Oceanside dress , perfect for the summer !

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