Sunday, November 25, 2018

Hollywood trousers with slant pockets -Liesl+co pattern

As a member of Liesl`s Advisors Circle, I get to try the new patterns and make something different with them. My idea for the Hollywood trousers pattern was to add the slant pockets and make them in denim for a more casual look.

First I made a muslin to see how the pattern was fitting me. I started with size 6 for the waist and 8 for the hips but I ended up with an all over 8. Based on the test garment I took 1cm from the inner front seam and 1cm off from the front crotch. I made my test garment in a much softer fabric than this denim, so that was not very smart but I am pretty happy with the fit of these, I think in real life are much less wrinkly than in these pictures.

Also, I took 4cm from the length too. The pattern is pretty easy to make, on the Oliver+S is also a sew along, with pictures and detailed instructions, but the pattern instructions are also very clear.

I love slant pockets! I am not a big fan of side seams pockets so I wanted to add the slant pockets on my Hollywood trousers. I have all Suzy`s Furrer classes on Craftsy and I  remembered I learned the slant pockets in one of her pants drafting classes  . Her classes are really amazing! 

I made a full tutorial on how I drafted the pockets ( I mean, "drafting" is a big word, the process is very simple) and how I sewed those, you can find it at the Oliver+S blog 

picture from the tutorial
For the pockets lining I used a fun cotton and chosen to let the right side of the fabric showing on the inside of the pants. Also, did a french seam finish around the pockets.


I like this pattern and I would love to make it also in a soft wool or a corduroy.

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Patrones Magazine 391 November 2018

A new Patrones Magazine, issue 391. As usual, November issue is the "coats issue". A  lot of nice patterns, although I would have loved a bit more variety.  

The content of this month:


The pattern of the month is this blazer, nice but Patrones has like a million blazer patterns :) 

The next patterns are in the "winter wardrobe" chapter and there are a few I like 

This sherpa jacket is a really easy pattern and with a fabric like that could make a very nice and fast to make project. I need to look around for 2.5m of something similar ( although I think 2.5m by 150cm wide is a bit too much!)

The blue oversized jacket is also nice, I like the drop shoulder on it.

Here a fur coat, a classic shirt, and two skirts. There are a lot of skirts in this issue.

....and talking about skirts , next chapter is the "stylish skirts" 

I like this asymmetrical skirt, love that bow at the waist and the top have some interesting sleeves.

Next is the "must have" coats chapter ...
I wish I had all the time to make a few of this. I love this trench! It has all the details I like in a trench!

And the "coats" I said, I feel like we got the same coat with very small differences, I was hoping for a bit more variety in the collar options but nonetheless, these are really nice coats.

This camel coat is my favourite , I think :)) I like the collar the princess seams and the pockets.


The plus size chapter has also a few patterns and while the most are not really exciting, I think this wide jacket is a nice pattern, I wish it was in the smaller size too. What I don`t like in this picture is the shoulder line at the sleeve...I think it is supposed to be a drop shoulder but the shoulder seam sticking out like that is not nice. 

...and the other  plus size patterns 


The kids are getting a few great patterns this month, I need to check the sizing on those boys pants, lovely pattern!

This girls coat is beautiful! 

...and the two dresses are also something my little girl would love to wear.

So this is Patrones magazine 391, a few nice patterns and a bit for everyone. 
Do you have any favorites? 

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Harper pants-Designer Stitch pattern

As much as I like dresses and skirts, pants are always easy, and comfortable pants are even better. Making my own gives me the chance to make them comfortable, even if I am making jeans. 
In this case, I made no jeans but Super Comfortable ponte knit  pants. The Harper pants from Designer Stitch.

The Harper Pants pattern offers a number of styling options.
– Standard Leg with optional front pin tuck.
– Faux side front pockets.
– Jeans style functional pockets.

All of the above styles are completed with
– an elastic waistband
– faux stitch fly.
– faux back welt pockets
– a choice of straight leg or slim leg widths and optional belt loops.

I made size 2 . I lowered the front rise by 2cm and the back rise by 3.5cm. Here, on the Designer Stitch blog is a post about the right way to adjust the rise of your pants. The stretch of your fabric is the key in this pattern. 
From de pattern description :

Heavyweight Ponte De Roma fabrics are BEST for the Harper Pants with at least 40%
4-way stretch.  Approx fibre content of: 70% rayon, 25% nylon, 5% Elastane
or 70% Polyester, 25% Rayon, 5% Elastane
(Heavy Weight Fabric minimum 340 gsm (10 – 12 ozs)

I made my muslin in a much softer fabric with lesser vertical stretch not thinking further that my final fabric will have much more vertical stretch... I could have shortened the pattern a bit more to get the waist a bit lower but I had only 1.5m from this black ponte so I could not make my test garment out of the same fabric. I think is very important to use for your test garment, fabric with the same stretch percentage as your final fabric.

I made the slim leg and the faux slant pockets. In the back are two faux welt pockets. The instructions on these are perfect, it went very easy( on the Designer Stitch blog there is also a tutorial with pictures for this). Also, I shortened the pants by 5cm.

I would not wear my blouse tucked in:)) but this was better than pulling my blouse up to show the details  :)). The top in this pictures is another Designer Stitch pattern, one of my all-time favorites, the Bridget blouse

I love how these pants are looking like tailored pants but having the comfort of yoga pants. The pattern is for a limited time on sale.
Link to the shop here ( 

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