Monday, September 17, 2018

Chelsea cardigan by Designer Stitch

Chelsea cardigan in sweater knit 
The fall is here and I am in great need of appropriate clothes for cooler days. So, the new pattern from Designer Stitch came at the perfect time, the Chelsea Cardigan. I tested the pattern but I can assure you that the opinions are 100 percent honest. I made 3 of them so I wouldn`t waste my time and fabric on a pattern I don`t love. 
I made a full video review on YouTube with action videos too and the sewing tutorial on how to attach the collar is here

The Chelsea Cardigan is coming with three length options, pockets, and an optional belt. I made mine in the longer length but I definitely want to make it also in the shorter version. I made a size 3 with a swayback adjustment ( my typical adjustment)  and  I also made the pockets a bit deeper.

This version is made in a sweater knit from , with a nice stretch and great drape, perfect for this pattern. To stabilize the shoulders I added clear elastic on the back shoulders and for the back neck I added seam tape to avoid stretching, it worked perfectly.

This one is made in ponti knit, and also here I used the stay tape to stabilize the back neck and the shoulders. Also, a good idea is to staystitch the pocket bags. I explain that also in the video ( That makes the pockets to stay in place and not roll out.

The back is cut on the fold. I love the slightly A shape.

This version was made in a faux suede ( also from Driessenstoffen ) and to be honest I did not even think on how I am going to sew it ... Cutting was easy with my rotary cutter but when I tried to put a pin on it was almost impossible. 
So my tips on sewing with this fabric are: use wonder clips or paper clips to hold your pieces together, use a microtex needle, for me a 60/8 needle was the perfect one; don`t press directly on the fabric, use a pressing cloth, I use a piece of  silk organza which is also seethrough, use a slightly longer stitch length ( I used a 3), a walking foot can be very useful, I kept the IDT on my Pfaff engaged all the time. 

I wanted to topstitch my seams and decided also to leave the edges unfinished, this fabric is really like leather, it doesn`t reavel at all and if it is nice cut it really doesn`t need any finishing. The pattern has 6mm seam allowance, something to keep in mind. To finish the pockets edges, I used my pinking shears.

The instructions are to finish the collar by hand but because I did not want to fight with this fabric to get my needle in it ( I also did not have one so thin in the house, and going to the fabric store for a needle, or even order it online it would have great risks of  buying more fabric :))) So, I  thought on using the bagged method ( or also known as burrito method ) as you will use it on a shirt collar or a cuff . That worked PERFECT! I stitched till the shoulder seams and for the rest of the collar at the back I just fold the SA in, and topstitched Here above you can see how it looks from the inside. Very neat and super fast.

I love this version, it looks more like a coat but you know, much faster to make:). This fabric so soft!

Soon there will be a sew along at the Designer Stitch blog and I am going to make a video on the bagged method for the collar. So if you think that you don`t want the pattern because you need to hand stitch the collar, no worries the bagged method is super easy and super fast. I used it also on the black/purple ponti version and it worked perfectly.

...and here are the three garments in action :)

The Chelsea Cardigan is for a limited time in the sale 

Link to the Designer Stitch webshop

Happy sewing!

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