Dress Knipmode #23 6/2018
I think this is going to be the last summer dress. I can`t wait to start sewing for fall. The latest KnipMode is full of interesting patterns. But back to the dress above.
My YouTube review you can see here ( including the pattern review, next projects, new fabrics and the action video)
This is one of their monthly "Jurken van Janice" ( Dresses from Janice). Every month dutch TV-personality and designer Janice presents a pattern in the KnipMode and every time there is also a video on YouTube where he shows more complicated parts of the pattern, how they are sewn up. I think that is a great idea and if he will use some more contrasting pattern/thread combination for the instructional video, it will be even better to understand some methods.
This dress has a lot of nice details. It has cut-on sleeves, gathers under the bust, shaped waistband, the skirt is a little gathered at the CF and CB. Also, it has a side seam invisible zipper, and it is really needed as the waist is pretty fitted and also a CF blind button placket closure, and this last part is covered in the video of the month (Dutch language only)
The fabric is polyester ( from my "fabric guy" @shauniosdorp on IG ), not slippery and with a nice drape. It pressed very nice but cutting was not easy. The rotary cutter didn`t want to cut it and the normal sheers were having a big time trouble to cut it also, it was like going away from it. Finally, I remembered the serrated shears I have and I tried those, PERFECT. I could not believe what a difference!
Because is a pretty loose model I did not make a muslin for this pattern. I only traced size 38 at the bust and 36 for neck, shoulders, and waist. I measured the waist to be sure that it will fit me and did a bit of paper pattern fitting to get the idea of how it was fitting. I traced the skirt size 38 and that got gathered in the waist 36. The pattern uses the same piece for the front and the back of the skirt, and to be honest I think my "back work " needs a bit more room, but it is ok .
Normally I make a swayback adjustment on almost all the patterns I am sewing and when I don`t do that I can notice the difference, even if it is only 2cm. In the back/side pictures you can see how the side seams tend to go forwards, I tried to pinch up horizontally at my back of the skirt, 2 cm, and that corrected immediately my swinging side seams and the bit of extra fabric I was having , but that I can`t fix in this dress anymore so it is something to remember.
I love it with the belt and a small belt loop it gets sewn at the CB, nice detail.
The instructions are good, I only changed the order a bit so that I could finish the inside better. The waistband is faced, so after I attached the waistband and it's facing to the bodice, I attached the skirt to the waistband ( the one facing the public), pressed the seam up and then I folded the seam allowance of the facing and stitched in the ditch from the outside of the garment to the skirt. I used my stitch in the ditch presser foot which works perfect, so easy!
I love the placket on the front, it would have been nice to know the required size of the buttons , there was only mentioned that you need three buttons. I think is important to know that, thinking that the placket is designed for particular size buttons. I know mine are too small but I like them and they fit the fabric ( and I found them very fast in my stash :))
...and the back with the little loop on the wide waistband!
This was a fun project, with all kind of nice details!
Next, I want to make a new Classic shirt but in combination with other pieces from the Recital shirt from Liesl and Co., a new denim jacket from the same KnipMode 6/2018 and sewing for my daughter is high on the list.
....and here you can see the "action" video