Tuesday, December 27, 2016

Wool coat Butterick Lisette #b6423

Not that I needed another coat, but I loved this pattern so much I just could not say no to it.This is a new pattern from Lisette for Butterick B6423.
As usual deciding on the size to make and later which the buttons to use.

Based on my measurements I made my muslin in size Medium  (12-14) thinking that size Small will be too small on the hips ( I measure 92cm). The muslin in size M was perfect at the hips but the rest of the coat was just too big, the sleeves were like 5 cm too long also. I know that it is an oversized style but I had the feeling that the size was just wrong. I decided to make the final coat in size S for the upper part and blending to size M for the hips. Even in size S the sleeves were too long. I used the pattern lines to shorten them by 3 cm, but I still have the feeling that I could take at least 1 cm more out. 

These are all the changes I made on the pattern. Further, I interfaced also the entire front and the hems and added 3 buttons instead of 1. According to the instructions you need to attach the lining at the hem by hand, after the lower back piece ( coat and lining ) are attached to the upper back,  but because I was a little in a hurry  ( read lazy :) ) I changed a little the order of sewing. I let an open seam in one of my lining sleeves, I attached the lining/facing to the coat and then I attached the lower back to the coat as instructed ... It had saved me a lot of hand sewing time.

While I really like the idea of this pleat, I don`t think it really works in my heavy wool, this is something I did not consider when I picking my fabric for this pattern. My bad. This wool makes the coat very warm and nice to wear but I think the pleat will work much better in a lighter fabric than mine.

The lining is a very nice satin with a little stretch and actually too nice to be used as a lining but I do love to add a nice fancy lining to my coats and I had no project for this in my mind ( I think 3 years in my stash ) 

Happy with my new coat!

More pics on my Flickr