Monday, March 26, 2018

Knippie dress

This is the kind of dress I would like to make for myself and wear all day!Super comfortable with pockets and suitable for cozy warm knit fabrics. But this time the dress is for Lisa :) ! 

Dit is het soort jurk ik wil voor mezelf maken en de hele dag dragen! Super comfortabel, met zakken en geschikt voor gezellige warme gebreide stoffen. Maar deze keer de jurk is voor Lisa:)

The pattern is from Knippie Magazine 5/2016, Dress 119. I made size 134 with the length of 146. The original is very short and I wanted to make it a little longer for warmth. Lisa fits in their 128 size in the size chart but after I measured the pattern pieces I realized that 134 fits her perfect.
 The pattern comes with facings to finish the neck but I used a strip of the fabric folded in half ( just a bit smaller than the circumference of the neck hole on the dress ) and I sew that using my serger.


Het patroon is van Knippie Magazine 5/2016, Jurk 119. Ik heb maat 134 gemaakt met de lengte van 146. Het origineel is erg kort en ik wilde het iets langer maken voor warmte. Lisa past in hun maat 128 in de maattabel, maar nadat ik de patroondelen had gemeten, realiseerde ik me dat 134 perfect bij haar past.

Het patroon is voorzien van beleg om de nek af te werken, maar ik heb een strook stof dubbelgevouwen, net iets kleiner dan de omtrek van het halsgat, en dat heb ik met my locker genaaid. 

Very easy to make, I think this can be done in a half hour! For me took a lot much longer because I had the brilliant idea to use my coverstitch to add a bit of interest at the seams. That is a great detail but in my case, my machine did skip a few stitches and I had to undo some seams and boy, that took a lot of time! At a moment I was so done with the whole unpicking that I could not bear to take anything out again! So, I had the same print fabric in another color and I made a small applique to cover the mistake. I hate that machine!!!


Zeer gemakkelijk te maken, ik denk dat dit in een half uur kan worden gedaan! Voor mij duurde het veel langer omdat ik het briljante idee had om mijn deksteek machine ( coversteek) te gebruiken om een beetje interesse toe te voegen. Dat is een geweldig detail, maar in mijn geval heeft mijn machine een paar steken overgeslagen en moest ik enkele naden ongedaan maken en jongen, dat kostte veel tijd! Op een gegeven moment was ik zo klaar met het hele ontrafelen dat ik het niet kon verdragen om er weer iets uit te halen! Dus ik had dezelfde printstof in een andere kleur en ik maakte een kleine applicatie om de fout te dekken. Ik haat die machine !!!

I love the fabric! It is french terry from Driessenstofen  , beautiful quality after a few times washing it is still beautiful. Very soft and comfortable, of course, perfect for children's clothes.


Ik ben dol op de stof! Het is french terry van Driessenstofen, mooie kwaliteit na een paar keer wassen is het nog steeds mooi. Zeer zacht en comfortabel, natuurlijk perfect voor kinderkleding.

Lisa is really happy with her dress and me too with the pattern. 


Lisa is erg blij met haar jurk en ik ook met het patroon.

Monday, March 12, 2018

Mountain View Pull-on Jeans

I have new jeans! Two pairs, very comfy jeans. Over the years I made quite a few pairs of jeans ( the Ginger jeans, 3 times, the pull on from Jallie once, a few from Burda, the Liana form Itch to stitch, 2 times) and this one is also going on the favorites pile. This is the Mountain View pull-on jeans pattern form Itch to stitch. 
While I am not afraid of the fly front zipper closure, or buttonholes, the pull on is really an easy and fast one to make. 

I made a size 4 and I took 1cm off from the back leg, from the crotch down. Also, I took the leg width in, to make them more skinny style, following the leg on my Liana jeans, but in the instructions of the Mountain view it is explained how to adjust for the skinny style. I made the pattern shorter by 2" ( 5 cm) .
The pattern has real pockets on the front something I was missing on my Jallie pattern. I made the pockets on the grey pair with french seams, I thought it will look nice with my pretty fabric. The colored overlocker thread is a nice accent...also I was too lazy to change it from the other pair I just finished  :)) Here you can also see the wide waistband; there is also elastic at the waist, sewn inside the waistband. Very important in making this pattern is to use fabric that stretches at least 20% , otherwise, you will not be able to pull them over your hips. The blue denim stretches 20% and the grey coated denim 25%. I think making first the waistband and try it on it will give you a good impression if your denim stretches enough. 

As always with jeans, this is the perfect project for playing with topstitching and before playing I had a difficult time deciding on what color thread to choose and finally, I went with red on this dark blue denim and mustard/yellow on the grey pair. I am pretty happy with my choices this time :) .   
After I made the first pair and I knew how the fit was, the second one was very fast. To make things even faster I use an old Pfaff Jubileum 125 for topstitching so that I don`t have to keep changing thread on my regular sewing machine.  

I think it does a great job. I am always using a topstitching needle with Gutermann topstitching thread and regular thread in the bobbin. 

While the fit is not perfect, both pairs are very comfortable and already getting a lot of wear. I still need to find  a solution for those wrinkles behind me knees!

This coated denim it does has more stretch than the blue one but it is stiffer and I think because of that leather look of the fabric, every wrinkle is much more evident. I don`t like that! ( but this is like my 3rd pair of coated denim jeans :))

The legs on this version are just a smidge wider than in the blue version ( 1/8" 0.3 mm per seam).Very comfortable!

Something I find annoying when making jeans is finding the best ( or close to that !!)  place for the back pockets. I hate all the pinning or trying to place it while you are also looking in the mirror and so I was in a hurry and first I wanted to measure the placement on the Liana jeans but this pattern has a different yoke size so that was a bad idea! And then I saw a roll of double-sided tape on my table!!!! That is PERFECT for this job. I placed a piece on my pocket and peeled the other side off and so I could move the pocket and keep it in place without pins or anything. After sewing the pocket I removed very easy the tape and that was the most easier way until now to place my back pockets on jeans! 

This pattern is definitely a winner! Together with the Liana jeans, these are now my favorite jeans patterns!

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