Crystal Cove Cami-Itch to Stitch new pattern

A new pattern from Itch to Stitch , the Crystal Cove cami, very easy to make, cup sizing a nice back detail and uses just a bit of fabric!

I made two versions, with very little changes. I made a muslin in size 4C and based on the muslin fit I lifted the whole dart by 1cm. The fabric for the black/pink version is a crepe rayon with just a bit of stretch, the drape is perfect for this pattern.

The neckline is finished with facings and because I did not want to get my pieces too much out of shape, I fused a piece of fabric and from that, I cut my facings, much more stable and easy to handle.

This blue version was actually the first one I made, this one is also 4 cm shorter than the black/pink version. I used french seams for both versions. The seam allowance on this patterns is 1.25cm (1/2") and making the french seams with such a small SA can be tricky but it worked. First 0.6cm and the second stitching just over the 0.6cm . I always press the seam open and that makes a big difference to get that seam exactly on the edge.

This version is made in rayon, also very drapey and perfect for this pattern.

And a small video of the two versions.

Conclusion: great wardrobe staple, perfect for using small yardage of fabrics and heaving the cup sizing is always a plus for me. 

Camisole pattern -Crystal Cove from Itch to Stitch 

Denim Skirt - Knipmode Skirt , more pictures of it here on Flickr 

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Nottingham Tops -Itch to Stitch pattern

A short time ago Itch to Stitch released a new pattern, the Nottingham top.
From their website 

A top with a twist on the front, relaxed fit, and three sleeve options.

I made my both versions in a viscose rayon, with a nice drape and good stretch.

I think the elbow short sleeve is perfect for my abstract prints.  I saw some pretty nice floral prints and solids Nottingham tops with the butterfly sleeve, I think that sleeve is perfect for florals or solids, so romantic.

I made the tops in size 6 for the shoulders/sleeve/bust and blending to the waist and down to a size 4.

The only change I made was to make a swayback adjustment, by 1.5cm

Maybe it looks a bit complicated but really is just an illusion :)), this top is easy to make, as easy as a basic t-shirt.

The tops in "action"

and the second one :)

Pattern Top: Nottingham top from Itch to Stitch 

Pattern black jeans: Liana Jeans from Itch to Stitch 

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Mountain View Pull-on Jeans

I have new jeans! Two pairs, very comfy jeans. Over the years I made quite a few pairs of jeans ( the Ginger jeans, 3 times, the pull on from Jallie once, a few from Burda, the Liana form Itch to stitch, 2 times) and this one is also going on the favorites pile. This is the Mountain View pull-on jeans pattern form Itch to stitch. 

While I am not afraid of the fly front zipper closure, or buttonholes, the pull on is really an easy and fast one to make. 

I made a size 4 and I took 1cm off from the back leg, from the crotch down. Also, I took the leg width in, to make them more skinny style, following the leg on my Liana jeans, but in the instructions of the Mountain view it is explained how to adjust for the skinny style. I made the pattern shorter by 2" ( 5 cm) .

The pattern has real pockets on the front something I was missing on my Jallie pattern. I made the pockets on the grey pair with french seams, I thought it will look nice with my pretty fabric. The colored overlocker thread is a nice accent...also I was too lazy to change it from the other pair I just finished  :)) Here you can also see the wide waistband; there is also elastic at the waist, sewn inside the waistband. Very important in making this pattern is to use fabric that stretches at least 20% , otherwise, you will not be able to pull them over your hips. The blue denim stretches 20% and the grey coated denim 25%. I think making first the waistband and try it on it will give you a good impression if your denim stretches enough. 

As always with jeans, this is the perfect project for playing with topstitching and before playing I had a difficult time deciding on what color thread to choose and finally, I went with red on this dark blue denim and mustard/yellow on the grey pair. I am pretty happy with my choices this time :) .   

After I made the first pair and I knew how the fit was, the second one was very fast. To make things even faster I use an old Pfaff Jubileum 125 for topstitching so that I don`t have to keep changing thread on my regular sewing machine.  

I think it does a great job. I am always using a topstitching needle with Gutermann topstitching thread and regular thread in the bobbin. 

While the fit is not perfect, both pairs are very comfortable and already getting a lot of wear. I still need to find  a solution for those wrinkles behind me knees!

This coated denim it does has more stretch than the blue one but it is stiffer and I think because of that leather look of the fabric, every wrinkle is much more evident. I don`t like that! ( but this is like my 3rd pair of coated denim jeans :))

The legs on this version are just a smidge wider than in the blue version ( 1/8" 0.3 mm per seam).Very comfortable!

Something I find annoying when making jeans is finding the best ( or close to that !!)  place for the back pockets. I hate all the pinning or trying to place it while you are also looking in the mirror and so on...so I was in a hurry and first I wanted to measure the placement on the Liana jeans but this pattern has a different yoke size so that was a bad idea! And then I saw a roll of double-sided tape on my table!!!! That is PERFECT for this job. I placed a piece on my pocket and peeled the other side off and so I could move the pocket and keep it in place without pins or anything. After sewing the pocket I removed very easy the tape and that was the most easier way until now to place my back pockets on jeans! 

This pattern is definitely a winner! Together with the Liana jeans, these are now my favorite jeans patterns!

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Oceanside Dress-Itch to Stitch pattern

I am very bad at combining fabrics prints and colors. Usually, I agonize about choosing the perfect fabric for my projects but when I need also to match fabrics /colors/prints then I go really crazy about it.

This is the latest pattern from Itch to Stich Patterns, the Ocean Side Dress. 

Made for knit fabrics, loose fitting bodice, fitted waist band, and a half circle skirt.

I made size 6 for the bodice and 4 for the waist and skirt. I added 2 cm at the hem of the skirt but I am a bit undecided about the length I like in this dress.

The solid version of my Oceanside dress is a knit with more than 50 %stretch horizontal and vertical, the contrasting gray has almost no stretch. 

The printed version is made in a very light ponti with no vertical stretch and the contrast in a light jersey. To avoid bulk at the waist I used the same thin jersey for the second layer of the waist. Also the cuff facings are made in the thin jersey. 

This dress is so comfortabel, really, like I want to keep it all day on.

Also it is very easy and fast to make. I made mine almost entirely on the serger. The hem is sewn with the cover. Oh boy, I love it when it works and hate it when is acting out , I have an Janome CPX  With this kind of stable knits is almost allways a succes. With thinner jerseys it is a strugle, most of the time after making a bunch of samples ( and feeling stupid that I can't get it good)  I am giving up and ending up with the trusty double needle hem.

Back to the dress, as I said it is very easy to make, the pattern instructions are great, as for all ITS patterns.

You could easily make a top with a peplum insteed of the whole skirt or a circle skirt with the fitted waist band. The stretch of the fabric is really important to consider when you chose the size to make, the waist needs to stretch when you put the dress on / off .

At the waist band / skirt seam you are instructed to add also clear elastic. I found this step really important as the skirt can get a bit heavy. I sewn the waistband , skirt and elastic in one step , with my serger. The regular foot on my serger has a hole where I can thread the 6 mm elastic thru. I marked all the notches also on my elastic and I stretch that to meet the notches on my skirt seam . It worked perfect!

Well needless to say I love both versions of my Oceanside dress , perfect for the summer !

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Anza Dress

A while ago I tested the Anza jumpsuit, for Itch to Stitch patterns. That pattern comes also with a dress option. The upper bodice is the same as the one from the jumpsuit only with a skirt for the lower part. 

I made it in size 4C and I shortened the skirt by 4 cm . I had the dress very fast finished, almost, but sewing the buttons did take longer than sewing the whole dress. It is something with sewing buttons ...I don`t know, it must be. A few days ago I finished the Classic shirt from Liesl+co. but I still need to sew the buttons and I just can`t push myself to do that, very strange :))).

I really like this dress and I wore it a few times already. Very easy to wear, love the deep pockets and the relaxed fit.

I made my dress in a very nice deep red crepe, ( in real life is not so bright red ) and lined the pocket flaps with a nice satin, also used for the skirt pockets. I did not line the breast pockets this time. I love the buttons and I think the gold with red it looks really nice. Again I used some metal beads as cord stoppers.

I could wear this dress every day, with flats it could be my uniform :)

Here is my Jumpsuit from the same pattern.

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Lago Tank -Free pattern from Itch to stitch

This pattern is a stash buster and it is a winner in the category " instant gratification" and to make it even better, the latest pattern from Itch to Stitch is free . You can download the Lago from the Itch to Stitch shop here .

Even if it is free I must assure you that the pattern is fully tested as all the other Itch to Stitch patterns are. The pattern comes in 00-20 sizes and it is made for knit fabrics.

I made my tops in size 6 for the upper body tapering to size 4 from the waist down. Also, I shortened the tank at the pattern lines by 4 cm.

The neck and armholes are finished with a  folded band...very easy. I made my tops with the serger and only the hem with a twin needle on my sewing machine. The blue print Lago is made in 30min from cutting to wear :)...if that is not fun... and lesser than 1m of fabric for one tank

I love the relaxed fit and I know that will come more of this tops in my closet.

You can download the free Lago tank here, also free is the Lindy Petal skirt, which I want to try soon. 

Here you can see all the versions made by the testers! 

Anza Jumpsuit -Itch to stitch

Last year I made my first jumpsuit, the Eliane from SyleArc and after the blue one I made immediately one more. The love for jumpsuits was born! So now I have a bunch of jumpsuits patterns that I want to make and of course fabrics, I want to use for them.  This viscose was bought for a jumpsuit so when this pattern came long this was my first choice. This is the newest pattern from Itch to stitch patterns, the Anza jumpsuit and dress  and it is great!! I say that not because I tested the pattern, as usual, my opinions are mine, but if you will take a look at the tester versions of this you will see what I mean: After seeing all those versions I want at least 4 more.

The Anza comes as a jumpsuit and as a dress, using the same bodice. Of course to make it even more appealing ( for me at least) the patterns has cup sizing to make it easy to fit. I made mine in my usual Itch to stitch size, 4 C. The only change was making the legs 4cm shorter.

The jumpsuit has nice deep pockets, the breast pockets are lined, at the waist casing with elastic and drawstring. I had no nice stoppers for my string so I bought two metal beads, worked perfectly!

I need to wait to wear this as here the temperatures are really no short sleeve adequate and for those times I made also the dress version in a beautiful red crepe, I still need to sew the buttons on.

Love this one and I need to get my hands on some olive Tencel to make another one, and maybe some denim look Tencel....:) 

The Anza jumpsuit and dress pattern is now on sale ! 

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La Paz jacket

I have so many projects on my "sew "list but patterns like this are pushing the rest of them at the back of that list. This is the latest pattern, the La Paz jacket, tested for  Itch to stitch. It is designed to be sewn in a structured knit fabric and that makes it really comfortable. I made mine in a leather look ponti with no vertical stretch and just a bit of horizontal stretch. I made the jacket in size 4 cup C; that is another nice thing about this pattern, it comes with cup sizing ( A, B, C, D and DD)

The pattern has a lot of nice features, front and back princess seams, two pieces sleeves with rounded corner vents and button closures, double-welt pockets with flaps. The jacket is unlined and you have the option to use Hong Kong seam finish. Well, this last thing, the Hong Kong treatment, I never did that on a jacket, I always make lined jackets/coats. This is a really nice and neat way to finish the seams on any project but boy, it does take a lot of time, really, is like is never ending. But is very pretty! On the Itch to Stitch blog is a tutorial about the Hong Kong finish .

First I want to say that I only apply for testing patterns that I like and I know will fit my style. One of the things I like is that having that deadline I know I have a limited time to finish that project so if I was   to make this, with the bias finishing and everything outside of the test, was a 2 weeks project but like this, it was one week working 2 hours every evening...approximately .

I can`t remember when I did a double welt pocket for the last time, with a flap, never. But these ones were so easy and that was one of those things I was most scared about. Great instructions there, really easy to follow.

This is not a difficult project, but if you are making the Hong Kong finish, be ready to take your time. I must be honest and say the I bought a fuchsia ponti and lining to make a new La Paz, but lined, I just can`t take any more bias binding. I think I can make it in two days, only to take my revenge on that bias binding thing!

So another successful project for me. I think that this pattern, even if it is looking pretty complicated is actually not so difficult to make, the instructions are very good and easy to follow, it has the cup sizing and that makes it really easy to fit 

Happy sewing! 

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Pink Tierras Joggers with zippered ankles ( with a photo tutorial)

The Tierras Joggers from Itch to Stitch patterns, ahh, I could make a hundred of them! Well, I am a little exaggerating but I did make 4 this month so that shows how much I like this pattern. I used to have another pattern for this kind of pants, the Casual trousers from one of the Sewing bee books. But actually, I was not completely happy with that pattern as the rise was really high on me and there was a little too much fabric around my hips. I was planning to get it right for my body one day, but now I have this pattern and I am so very happy with it.

All my thoughts about the pattern I wrote in this post a few weeks ago.

During testing, I saw on the internet, some joggers with zippers at the ankles and I really wanted to try to make some.

Adding the zipper was easy but I wanted also to add elastic and that I had to figure out. In the end that was pretty easy. On Itch to Stitch`s blog, you can find a photo tutorial on how to add zippers to the Tierra's joggers.

This is not my "to go" color, but I think it will be great for spring and summer and the weight and drape were perfect for the metal zippers. I hope I can make a few more of this pants, as the summers are not really hot here and these are so easy to wear.

I love the gold zippers on this pink! Such an easy way to add a little extra.

Tierras Joggers photo tutorial at Itch to Stitch blog