Thursday, June 29, 2017

Ella PJ`s set from Designer Stitch Patterns (free pattern)

I am always in search of the perfect PJ's. I have the Closet Case pattern already cut ( like 4 months ago) in a beautiful cotton but I still need to start sewing that one. Beeing a tester for Designer Stitch, when Ann came with this pattern I knew that there was my chance to actually make a pair of nice pajamas. I work (sew) always good with deadlines. 

This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch, the Ella Cami set, a cami and relaxed elastic shorts or long pants with pockets.  I made mine in a drapey viscose and I must say that this set is so nice to wear. First I thought, who needs pockets in a pajama pant, but I love them. The relaxed fit of the cami is perfect, not too boxy.

I made my set in size 3 for the top and size 2 for the pants ( for the record, and easy to understand the sizing of the pattern, my measurements are 92-71-94 and 169cm ) .I only shortened the pants by 6cm. I made a second cami already ( to wear with jeans), it is such an easy project and I think if you omit the lower flounce and lengthen the bodice of the cami , you can make this with just a bit of fabric. Also omitting the facings and finishing with a bias will be very easy to do.

The Ella set is now ( until 4th of July ) on sale, as the rest of the Designer Stitch shop, but by joining the Designer Stitch Facebook group  you will find a discount code to get this pattern FREE. Great pattern, with a lot of possibilities, not only for PJ's; made in the right fabrics also for everyday wear. 

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Bridget blouse and Alyse pants -Designer Stitch Patterns

This month Designer Stitch is celebrating its 1-year anniversary. I wanted to sew a DS pattern for this occasion and I ended up sewing 2. So happy anniversary Designer Stitch ( and congrats to Ann Grose the mastermind behind the patterns).

 The pants are the Alyse slim leg pants , made for woven stretch fabrics with 4% spandex...The pants are based on a stretch ratio of 20% 
I made my first muslin in size 3, in a stretch cotton sateen and it was a bit too big overall so smart me, I took size 2 as I was think that it will be much better overall, and made a new a fabric with almost no stretch....I know... Stupid me. Ofcourse it didn't fit so I cut in the same fabric as the first one and the fit was almost perfect. 

This is sewn with 1cm SA instead of 1.5cm, also I took a bit of fabric from the back leg out and I think the fit is really nice. I omitted the pockets. I made my final pants also in a stretch cotton sateen. Love the snug fit and the slim legs...that are not too tight.

The blouse is the Bridget pattern , and I used the sleeves from the "short sleeve " pack, the mid-elbow sleeve. 
I made this pattern also here in a red crepe, and here in a polyester fabric, so I had no fitting work .I used the same pattern as for the red Bridget, size 2C for the bust and blending at 4 for the waist and 6 for the hips. No waist darts and no zipper. This pattern has cup sizing so that makes it easy to fit.

This coral crepe was so nice to sew. So spongy and soft. Also to wear is a pleasure, it even has a bit of stretch .

The lace sleeves were pretty easy to sew. For the sleeve seam, I used first a straight stitch and then at a 0.5 cm or something like that away from the straight stitching line, I did a small zigzag and trimmed the rest of my SA next to the zigzag. I saw this finishing method in the "Sewing lingerie" class from Alison Smith, on Craftsy . My corded lace wouldn't feed nicely under the locker. 

I finished the neckline with a stroke of lace , sewn first by machine turned and hand sewn in place. The stroke is also finished with a small zigzag.

I also finished the armholes with a bias band, self-made and finished by hand. The side and shoulder seams are sewn with french seams. I love the neat look inside.   For the sleeves hem, I used the edge of my fabric.

And the inside :)

And this is it. Two nice pieces in my wardrobe, and two pieces of fabric out of my stash.
On the Designer Stitch Patterns Support  Facebook group are this week all kind of special offers and giveaways, I think it worth taking a look.
Happy Anniversary, Designer Stitch and Ann keep up the good work.

Thank you for reading! 

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Thursday, June 8, 2017

Beausoleil Dress-Itch to stitch

At the moment is like I am doing only "testing" sewing, but I think the deadlines are a push for me to finish the garments on time. Life can get a little busy, so if normal I will take my time with a project when testing a pattern I need to finish on time. So, the latest pattern testing was, for Itch to Stitch patterns, for lovely Kennis. A  new pattern, the Beausoleil dress & top, absolutely on trend but definitely not something I would buy from a store, not that I buy any clothes but this "cold shoulder" style is not something that I ever considered. Testing patterns is for me also the possibility to get out my comfort zone and try new things.

Beausoleil has cup sizing A, B, C, D and DD, sizes 00-20, option for a dress or top, center back lapped zipper ( with a great tutorial on ITS blog), patch pockets for the dress option.
I made my dress in my usual 4C size for the upper part and based on my actual measurements (71cm waist and 92 cm hips) I went with size 0 for the waist and hips. The only change I made was my sway back adjustment, 2 cm .

Most difficult for me was deciding on which fabric to use, I wanted something not too stiff but also strong enough to support the zipper. I went with this polyester, wich I bought a while ago without a project in my head for it. I think it works great for this dress but it was slightly sheer so I had to line the skirt part. For that, I used the skirt from my muslin, a blue cotton ( of course blue, it is like I own all the blue fabric in the world :)) ) It was perfect, I kinda did my thing with attaching it to the dress but it worked. After I attached the zipper to the skirt I attached the lining skirt at the waist of the dress leaving a few cm unsewn at the zipper and that I attached by hand to finish around the zipper. 

and here is how it looks from the inside 

The neckline and the shoulder "holes" are finished with facings, interfaced facings and to get a nice clean edge on my facings I used a technique I learned in a Craftsy class, Mastering constructions: Collars and closures with Sara Alm. You sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together and then you turn the interfacing to the inside and press it to fuse it to the main fabric.

...and the inside of the interfaced facing.

I could not decide which what color thread to use for sewing my hem so I did it by hand, it looks very clean and nice from the outside.

Very happy with my new dress, also it is the perfect match for this wedges.
The Beausoleil pattern is on sale for a few days on the Itch to Stitch webshop.

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Thursday, June 1, 2017

Classic shirt -Liesl+co.

I can`t remember when I made my last shirt, must be a few years back  ( also a blue one :) )  but I really wanted a new one. I have a few patterns in my stash ( actually a lot of them if I count also the Burda/Knipmode/Patrones magazines) but this one, the Classic shirt from Liesl+ co. came very fast on the top of my list.

The pattern has cup sizing A,B,C and D , this is always a plus for me, it has a relaxed fit but not boxy, a nice hem shape and I love the collar. It was the first time sewing with a PDF from Liesl+co but everything went smooth; layered pattern tiles, so I  printed only my size.

I bought the pattern after I saw the Sew Along on their blog. That convinced me that I could sew the collar and the sleeve plackets without too much trouble. And yes, it was so so easy. Everything is so well explained with clear pictures.

I made my shirt in size 4C and after making a muslin I made a few changes: 1.5cm off from the shoulder seam, the bodice and sleeves shortened by 4 cm and also typical for me, 2 cm sway back adjustment. Also, I moved the buttonholes a little in order to get one button at my high bust line.

I like the width of the sleeves and also the size of the collar. To sew the pockets I draped the shirt over my pressing ham, to get them nicely placed over the bust dart.

Of course, I made it in a simple ( boring )  blue fabric, cotton/polyester, but now that I am happy with the fit I can go wild...probably some blueprints :))). The plus side is that I can wear it with a lot of things, even with my  Kiera maxi skirt.

Love the slightly shaped yoke and the small pleats. 

I am so happy with this shirt, I love the fit and it is pretty easy to sew too.