I love to see patterns with special style lines, so those are always getting high on my "to sew"wishlist. That was also the case with this KnipMode Magazine dress from December issue 2018.
Lovely princess seams, front and back yokes and there is even an option for a small flounce for the sleeves and a cuff.
I think this is a really cool pattern. They have it in the magazine in a few variations, like a top, as a dress with a bit fitted skirt, the one I used, or with a bit more flared skirt. The difference is in the side panel of the skirt, there are two extensions to make the side panel wider at the hem. Here you can see the tech drawing.
|Picture from www.knipmode.nl|
|Picture from www.knipmode.nl|
A perfect pattern for color blocking, also in the magazine versions they used a sort of trim that it gets sewn in the seam. I think their dresses are much more fun than my grey one :)) but I know this is something I will get a lot of wear from.
I made a muslin for size 36 /38. It was way too fitted so I decided to make size 38 an keep 36 only for the shoulder length. For next time I need to remember that I should measure myself before I start on a new pattern. I did not do that for a while and it looks like I gained some cms around my waist and hips. Based on the test garment I also shortened the back length ( or swayback adjustment) and also took a bit off ( a total of 2cm) at the CB neck. I did not use a zipper as the fabric is stretchy enough. If I would use a zipper in a fabric like this I would definitely interface the zipper area (actually I will do it in any fabric).
For my test garment, I did not follow the instructions so I made a bit off a mess of the side point, where all the panels are coming together but it is actually so easy, following the instructions made it very easy, so well done KnipMode on that. This is the idea of it...as highlighted in this picture
I also topstitched all my seams. I sewed the whole thing on the serger, topstitched with the sewing machine and made the hems on my cover stitch, which behaved very well on this fabric:). The fabric is a very thick knit fabric it does stretch a lot but I think a bit more stretch it would have been even better. For the next time, I need to give just a bit more extra room at the bust as you can see it is a bit tight and gaping there at the armhole, although is still feeling comfortable. ( I think here are again the few extra cms I gained and did not account for :)))
|Adding clear elastic in the back shoulders.|
To give a little support on my shoulders seam I added some clear elastic. I have the 6mm which is fitting perfectly in that hole of the standard presser foot from the serger. Without stretching I just let it feed as the serger is sewing the fabric. An alternative could be seam tape or woven selvage.
I kept the center back seam as I think it brakes a bit the back panel and it does have shaping in it.
Also, I used another method then instructed to finish the neckline. The instructions are telling you tu turn the SA to the inside and topstitch but I don`t really like that method so I cut a strip of my fabric a bit shorter than the neckline to ease that a bit into my strip and be sure it will lay flat. Sewed right sides together, trimmed the SA and turned to the inside and topstitched, I think it looks great!
The pattern is also as a PDF in their webshop and you actually get both dress options( and the top of course). Here is a link ( no affiliate). Do remember that there is no seam allowance included!
....and that was all! Till next time, happy sewing!