Knipmode magazine dress 7/2015 plus invisible zipper video tutorial

The pattern for this dress from KnipMode magazine , no affiliate,( issue 7/2015) was one of those patterns that sometimes I see and just can`t forget! I remember I was looking in the magazine two years ago and this was the only pattern I liked from that issue and I didn`t buy the magazine for just one pattern. Later I regretted but I saw my chance when KnipMode started to offer their patterns also online, as PDF patterns.
The website is only in dutch but it is pretty easy to navigate. The only downside of their PDF is that they don`t have the layering function so I had to print all the sizes. It is still much easier than tracing the pattern from , these days, very busy patterns sheets.
The same, as in the magazine, the pattern has no seam allowance (SA) included and also the hem allowance needs to be added.  For the SA I use my SA rulers, very handy when working with patterns without seam allowance.

I know that the magazine picture doesn`t show anything of the pattern, I also don`t like that belt used with this dress but once you see the technical drawing you will see why I was excited about this dress.

The dress has side panels and the princess seam that is running over the bust goes all the way to the back. Also, I love the V neck on the back.

#Pattern adjustments:

KnipMode drafts their patterns for cup B and height 172cm. I am only 169cm and I always need to make length adjustments. I made a test garment first, I almost always do a test garment, that makes the final sewing much more enjoyable :) .

•  I took 3 cm horizontally from the back and front panel( I measured 7cm from the CF down and there I took the 3cm out, and on the back at the same level as in the front, aprox.) , I had some extra fabric above the bust and on the back upper side and also the bust point of that side panel was too low, and all that extra room that was meant for the bust was too low on me. By taking the 3 cm out resolved all these problems.
• After that, I had to lower the armhole by 1 cm as it was now too tight. 
• I raised the V neck on the back by 1.5cm (5/8') to be sure that my bra band will not show.
• Next change was to make a swayback adjustment, that is a typical adjustment for me, I took 2 cm out at the CB seam blending to nothing at the side seam.
• The neckline was also a bit too high on me, so I lowered it by 1cm 
• Als I did not add any hem allowance so I can say that the dress is 3cm shorter 

In the picture above, you can see that side panel better. I really love the fit now, on the test garment, the first time I put it on, I was a bit disappointed and was thinking that it is not so nice as I expected, but actually, the bad fit was the cause. ( also being made with an old bed sheet did not help :)).

The dress is made with a polyester crepe with some stretch in it, I had to steam a few edges a few times as it was getting very easy stretched out. Very important was to staystitch the armholes and necklines 

The neckline and the armholes are finished with a bias band and all the edges are overlocked.

I love the back! Love the back neckline! The dress has an invisible zipper in the back. On the YouTube video review , starting with minute 11.20 I am demonstrating how I am inserting an invisible zipper, I always use this method, very easy and fast.

If you are checking my back for print matching....there is none!:))) I tried but that back seam was to shaped to get it right and the fabric was not cooperating so I lost interest and just cut...I did cut single layer for the back. 

The pattern has also fisheye darts but I did not have any cloth to pinch for them , the dress is already fitted enough. 

I am super happy with this dress! I waited two years to make it, whatever....I love it!

On my YouTube chanel, you can find the video review too, including the zipper tutorial.

And here is the "action" video :

Thank you for reading and watching ! Happy sewing!